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| Inside the DMZ: near the 3rd Tunnel |
Before I went on this trip I had minimal knowledge on the DMZ, thinking that it was simply just the boundary line between North and South - but that was not the case. The DMZ was in fact a 4km wide buffer zone between North and South, 2km on the North and 2km on the South. Ironically, it is considered to be a peaceful nature reserve where endangered plants and animals can frolic.
Our very informative tour guide - whose grandfather was technically a North Korean who came down South to attend university a year before the Korean War - gave us valuable insight on the separation of the two countries. He prefered to be reffered to as a Korean, not specifically North or South, but just Korean. He argues that it is difficult to define whether his grandfather is a North or South. Although he came from the North he technically became a South Korean ever since the Korean War happened - because he ended up getting stuck in the South and has remained here ever since. What was truely heartbreaking is the fact that he never saw his parents again since the war happened. On the day he parted he had promised his parents he would return in the Summer next year, but that became impossible due to the beginning of the Korean War.
Additionally, whilst suffering from alznheimer, recently in Seoul Station he attempted to get a ticket back to North Korea to visit his parents, questioning why he was unable to visit them. Because of such situations it can, at times, be difficult to say whether North and South are different, for the people are the same but are divided geographically through political tensions.
Imjingak
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| Fair ground at Imjingak, pirate ship blasts out Kpop when it starts...weird. |
We got off at the rest stop to visit the washrooms, take a breather, and buy something to eat seeing as there were no lunch breaks during the tour.
At this rest stop we could buy DMZ-related souveniers. A store sold North Korean money preserved in a picture frame and wine.
What made the place bizarre was that there was an a mini fair ground situated there next to the car park. They had a pirate ship, carousel, and a few other rides. At first I thought these rides were out of service due to the minimal amount of people that were there, but I was wrong. Within minutes of arrival the pirate ship moved and started blasting out Kpop music.
The first time it moved I don't think I saw anyone on it, but during the second time I did see a few.
This was a very surreal experience since we were so close to a perceived dangerous and serious zone, but then again Imjingak is deemed to be a peace village.
In the distance there were families with children flying kites in the field. Having a bit of a picnic next to the DMZ.
Military Strategies
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| Bet there's dynamites stuffed in that baguette |
We also drove along the Freedom Bridge, built by the founder of Hyundai, Chung Juyung, who was in fact a North Korean defector. When the bridge was built, he used it to send around 1,000 cows over to the North as a peace offering. A bit further down, we passed an electricity tower which was built by Hyundai also. It's used to send electricity to the factory on the North Korean side of the DMZ.
Later we passed through the control border where the military personels were to check our passports. Before we got to this point, earlier on during the day we were required to write down our names, nationality and passport/ARC numbers on a clipboard for them to see. The tour guide instructed us to avoid taking pictures of any military personel whilst in the DMZ, but it's also OK if they don't see you haha.
3rd Tunnel
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| Our tour guide talking about how he worked at the border fence to patrol. |
The video felt quite dated, perhaps made in the 90s due to the colour satursation, grain and style. Of course, an ever too chipper American male was used to narrate the entire video in a overenthusiastic manner.
We were then lead to a few rooms that displayed models, maps, and displays explaining the DMZ. Here our tour guide explained to us about the tunnels. There are currently 4 NK dug tunnels leading to SK discovered. An NK defector who was the engineer for one of the tunnels helped SK discover the 4th tunnel (or was it the 3rd?). It is believed that there are 21 tunnels in total leading to SK since the 4 tunnels are said to be linked to a NK military base. NK has 21 base camps in total.
Right before heading down into the tunnel we were instructed to not take pictures whilst in there. Thus, we had to leave our phones in the many lockers that surrounded us. We were also given the option to store our coats in there bcause the trek down and up will get us sweating. I opted to just merely abandon my phone. I believe some managed to sneak in their phones for some sneaky pics because the metal detector kept going off when everyone passed...
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| Diagram of the 3rd Tunnel: we walked down the grey pathway tube on the right to get into the tunnel |
Once we finally reached the tunnel things started to get cramped and wet. The tunnel was small, therefore anyone who exceeded around 160cm in height had to crouch half the time. And because the helmet adds a few centimetres onto to you, it is a given that the average person must crouch. The helmets were handy since it was incredibly easy to bang your head against the metal beam supports. Additionally, the tunnel was dripping and wet. I had a few droplets fall in my eye during the trek.
There were 3 walls built upon the discovery of the tunnel, the walls were set up as precautions to stop North Koreans from invading in future. The 3rd wall is said to be about 170m away from the DMZ border, meaning we were 170m away from North Korea when we reached the wall. Upon reaching it there was barbed wire in front of it to prevent anyone from getting anywhere close to touching it. There was a door on the right. Bizarre since it should be a prevention measure after all, does the existence of a door not suggest somewhat easy access? Next to the door was a small rectagular hole that let us visitors peek through to see the 2nd wall in the distance. Just when I thought I spent enough time looking through the tiny hole my scarf got caught on the barbed wire when I tried to turn and leave!
The walk back up killed my legs. The journey along the tunnel felt like forever, and the walkway that linked the tunnel to the ground surface was a killer. It was perhaps moderately steep, a short 100m walk would have been doable for me. But no, this was a 400m walk. So about 200m way through I felt like dying. Our tour guide breezed past us like he was taking a walk at the park whilst we panted and sweated our way up.
Later on the bus he said he probably went up that pathway over 300 times now because of the tours he has to do. A fit and healthy job he has.
We were given a few minutes to take a browse at the souvenier store, grab a drink and some snacks perhaps.
Whilst I was waiting to retrieve my phone from the locker I noticed that there was a large group of kindergarten kids about to head down the walkway to the tunnel. There were four military guys standing behind to look after them. One little girl in particular was holding hands with one of the four guys and called him ajusshi, which made the other three guys laugh because the guy she called ajusshi looked no more than 30! It felt very heart warming to see these guys laugh and smile whilst in military gear.
Dorasan Observatory
We were given very minimal time here, around 15 minutes max because we were running out of time before the DMZ borders closed for the day.Here we could see North Korea in the distance with our very own eyes. We were instructed to not take pictures beyond the yellow line at the viewing platform where the binoculars were located.
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| North Korean side of the DMZ: Kaesong Industrial Factory in the distance... |
Basically we weren't allowed really nice close up shots of North Korea. But there wasn't much to see anyway. Without binoculars, everything was brown and hazy. After popping a 500won coin into the binoculars coin slot, you can see things slightly better for 2 minutes although there stil wasn't much to see - if you lacked a 500won coin you could exchange money for some at the booth on the platform.
The North Korean factory was located on the left (Kaeseong Industrial Factory), whilst the "peace village" was siutuated on the right with a tall North Korean flagpole. The "peace village" was in fact a propaganda village, where practically not a soul lives there but perhaps a few NK military personels may patrol it. When I looked nothing on the NK side moved, the buildings just looked abandonned. Furthermore, I do not recall seeing any sort of greenery on NK's side. Their mountains were devoid of trees as well...
This is just the DMZ though, it's not like we can actually see the real North Korea. But perhaps this was just a tiny glimpse...
After a couple of minutes, we were called into large room to watch another overly exaggerated video that talked about this observatory. Before the video started everyone was chatting amongst themselves, which made one of the English speaking military guys raise their voice at us to tell us to keep quite and 'enjoy' watching the video. He had a bit of American attitude in his voice.
When we were heading back to the coach, a bunch of our group members were taking pictures with that same military guy like he was some celebrity. Turns out he came from New Jersey.
After a couple of pictures his military guy friends came over to drag him away.
Dorasan Station
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| A symbollic place: Dorasan Station |
Dorasan Station is located next to this road. This station was once used for South Koreans to take a visit up to Pyeongyang for a tour, it actually seemed like an incredibly easy process. The station looked like any railway station, large, spacious and modern. All citizens seemed to have to do was buy a ticket, bring their passports and have their luggage inspected. Kind of like hitting up the Eurostar but only on a smaller scale. Of course, this station no longer operates. It stopped operating since 2008 when a South Korean woman got shot whilst on a tour in North Korea. Ever since then, political tensions had risen.
What really got my attention in this place was the board placed at the top right corner next to the barriers to the train platforms. The message made me feel both sad and hopeful for better relations between the two countries. It read: "Not the last station from the South. But the first station toward the North."
I really hope that one day this station will work again, so people like our tour guide's grandfather can perhaps take a visit back at his home country.
This station was our last stop of the tour, so we were told to grab some last minute souveniers next to the ticket booth. Also, the ticket booth sold tickets to Pyongyang for 500won with commemorative stamps on them. Everyone grabbed for one. With the ticket it let us pass the barriers to see the train tracks. Since time was limited I thought it was best to not go in and see.
The military guard at the barrier was happy to tak pictures with visitors.
Post-DMZ Thoughts and Feelings
The divide between the North and South is in fact more saddening than scary. Of course, I was a little spooked when told that there could possibly be 21 tunnels dug in total by NK leading to SK, meaning 17 are still undiscovered. But the closed off station and stories of separated families impacted me more than anything.The severing of ties within a land that was once one sounds ever so sorrowful. Everything has been severed. The tensions seem to rise as time passes, thus making it near impossible for unification. There is also the issue of some South Koreans who are against the notion of unification. Why are they so against uniting with their suffering Northern kind? Sure their Northern brothers have been drilled into having a more communistic mentality, but it's not their fault. They can change like the defectors. There is potential.
I'm just hoping that a new link between North and South opens, or old links reopening again.
The DMZ zone on North Korea's side looks far too depressing and lifeless...
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| "Not the last station from the South, But the first station toward the North." |
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